Abrasion: wearing away of cliffs by sediment flung by
breaking waves.
Angle of Dip: the angle of the bedding planes which affects
the shape of the cliff. If the rock layers are horizontal, small overhangs of
more resistant rock form in the cliff face. If the bedding planes dip towards
the sea, a gently sloping cliff face is formed with few overhangs. If the
bedding planes dip away from the sea, a steep cliff face with many large
overhangs of more resistant rock is formed.
Arch: wave-eroded passage through a small
headland. This begins as a cave formed in the headland, which is gradually
widened and deepened until it cuts through.
Aspect: the direction a cliff faces; facing
the direction of the prevailing wind can lead to high rates of cliff erosion.
Attrition: erosion caused when rocks and
boulders transported by waves bump into each other and break up irflo smaller
pieces.
Backwash: the return of water to the sea after
waves break on a beach.
Bar: where a spit grows across a bay. A bar can
eventually enclose the bay to create a lagoon.
Bays: found between headlands where there are
alternating outcrops of resistant (harder) rock and less resistant (softer)
rock. Waves erode the areas of softer rock more rapidly to form bays. The more
resistant, harder rock forms the headlands that protrude out to sea.
Beach: the temporary deposition of sand and
shingle along the coastline. Without its beach a coast is vulnerable to erosion,
e.g. the cliffs at Barton on Sea were easily eroded following the construction
of a groyne updrift at Bournemouth.
Beach Depletion: the loss of beach material
e.g. by offshore dredging of shingle banks.
Bedding Plane: a line in rocks separating two
different layers: one usually more resistant to erosion, one usually weaker. The
layers, deposited horizontally millions of years ago as sediment on the sea bed,
have often been tilted through earth movements (tectonics), creating an angle of
dip.
Beach Replenishment: the addition of new
material to a beach naturally, through the action of longshore drift or
artificially, through the dumping of large amounts of material.
Biological Weathering: the breakdown of rock through
the action of plants and animals.
Breakwaters: offshore coastal defence
structures built of stone parallel to the coastline; they help absorb the energy
of breaking waves. Deposition occurs in the calmer water created behind the
breakwater.
Cave: found in coasts formed of resistant
rock. Corrasion, Corrosion and Hydraulic action widen any weakness within the
rock e.g. joint, bedding plane or fault, to form a cave.
Chemical Weathering: the decomposition (or
rotting) of rock caused by a chemical change within that rock; sea water causes
chemical weathering of cliffs.
Clay Cliffs: clay is a soft, impermeable rock
which soaks up water to become saturated. When this happens the clay becomes
unstable and begins to slump. Clay cliffs have gentle slope angles.
Cliffs: hard, resistant rocks form steep
cliffs; soft rocks such as clay create low, gentle cliffs.
Cliff Collapse: steep cliffs made of hard,
resistant rock, fall down when there is a loss of supporting rock underneath
caused by wave attack.
Cliff Drainage: steel barriers and drains put into a
cliff to intercept the water movement through the cliff which causes mass
movement.
Constructive Waves: found on low-angled beaches
and mainly responsible for coastal deposition. They are gently breaking, with a
much stronger swash than backwash.
Destructive Waves: found on steep beaches, are
steeply breaking and mainly responsible for coastal erosion. Their backwash is
much stronger than their swash.
Dredging: excavating sand and shingle from the sea
bed; this can contribute to coastal erosion.
Erosion: the wearing away of the land by
rivers, ice sheets, waves and wind.
Estuary: the tidal mouth of a river where it
meets the sea; wide banks of deposited mud are exposed at low-tide.
Exfoliation: a form physical weathering that
occurs in very warm climates when a rock is repeatedly heated and cooled.
Fault: a large crack in the rock caused by
earthquake movements.
Fetch: the maximum distance of water over
which winds can blow. In the case of south-west England the fetch is from the
south-west (5000 miles). This also coincides with the direction of the
prevailing wind and leads to large storm waves attacking Barton on Sea,
particularly in Winter.
Fiord (or Fjord): a long, narrow, steep-sided inlet
formed by glaciers and later drowned by a rise is sea level. Fjords are often
over 3 kilometres deep.
Freeze-Thaw Weathering: also called
frost-shattering as it occurs in cold dimates when temperatures are often around
freezing point and where exposed rocks contain many cracks. Water enters the
cracks during the warmer day and freezes during the colder night. As the water
turns into ice it expands and exerts pressure on the surrounding rock, causing
pieces to break off.
Gabions: steel wire mesh filled with boulders
used in coastal defences.
Geological Structure: see bedding planes, angle of
dip and fault.
Groyne: a wooden barrier built out into the
sea to stop the longshore drift of sand and shingle, and so cause the beach to
grow. It is used to build beaches to protect against cliff erosion and provide
an important tourist amenity. However, by trapping sediment it deprives another
area, down-drift, of new beach material (beach replenishment). See Rock
Strongpoints.
Headlands: areas of land protruding out to sea
formed of resistant (harder) rock. They help protect the bay which forms between
them from wave attack.
Human Factors: see Coastal Erosion Factors and
Coastal Deposition Factors.
Hydraulic Action: the process by which
breaking waves compress pockets of air in cracks in a cliff. The pressure may
cause the crack to widen, breaking off rock.
Impermeable Rock: a rock that will not allow water
to pass through it e.g. clay.
Joints: small cracks in the layers of rock
created during earth movements.
Lagoon: a former bay cut off from the sea by a
bar.
Land Reclamation: areas of land that were once
below the sea; the sea has either been blocked off by dykes and the sea water
pumped out (e.g. Dutch Polders), or material has been dumped into the sea to
raise the level of the seabed until it becomes dry land.
Longshore Drift: waves approaching the coast
at an angle result in the gradual zig-zag movement of beach materials along the
coast.
Managed Retreat: allowing cliff erosion to
occur as nature taking its course: erosion in some areas, deposition in others.
Benefits include less money spent and the creation of natural environments.
Mass Movement: the downhill movement of
weathered material under the force of gravity. The speed can vary considerably,
from soil creep, where the movement is barely noticeable, to slumps, slides and
mudflows, where the movement becomes increasingly more rapid.
Mud Flows or Slides: occur after periods of
heavy rain when loose surface material becomes saturated and the extra weight
causes the material to become unstable and move rapidly downhill in an almost
fluid state.
Notch: an undercut part of the cliff base
where wave attack concentrates erosion. See Wave Attack Zone.
Off-shore: out at sea, away from the land.
Onion Weathering: see Exfoliation.
Permeable Rock: allows water to percolate or
pass through it e.g. limestone, sandstone and chalk.
Physical Weathering: the disintegration of
rock into smaller pieces without any chemical change in the rock; this is most
likely in areas of bare rock where there is no vegetation to protect the rock
from extremes of weather e.g. freeze-thaw and exfoliation (or onion weathering).
Polders: areas of reclaimed land that were
once part of the sea bed in the Netherlands. See lsselmeer Polders.
Prevailing Wind: the direction from which the
wind usually blows.
Raised Beach: beach left stranded high on a
cliff face after a fall in sea level.
Revetments: wooden, steel, or concrete
fence-like structures that allow sea water and sediment to pass through, but the
structures absorb wave energy. A beach can build up behind the revetment and
provide further protection for the cliff. These are used as part of coastal
defences.
Ria: a river valley drowned by a rise in sea level. It
provides an excellent, natural, sheltered harbour.
Rip-Rap: large boulders dumped on the beach as
part as part of coastal defences.
Rock Strongpoints: rocks dumped into sea to
form a narrow artificial headland; these have replaced wooden groynes at Barton
on Sea. Their aim is to control longshore drift of sediment in a similar way to
wooden groynes and have proved to be more effective as they have a stronger
structure to resist storm waves.
Saturation: loose surface material after heavy
rain can become saturated and therefore unstable due to the extra weight,
leading to mud slides. Where permeable sand rock overlays impermeable clay (e.g.
the cliffs at Barton on Sea), the sand can become saturated and slump or slide
along a shear plane.
Sea Level Changes: changes in the level of the
sea against the land are caused by either the building up of melting of polar
ice caps, or by rising and falling land levels.
Sea Defences: measures taken to defend the
coast from erosion, cliff collapse and flooding.
Sea Walls: aim to prevent erosion of the coast
by providing a barrier which reflects wave energy.
Sediment: material originating from rock
weathering and erosion. Shingle and sand are examples found along the coast.
Sediment Cell: Sediment moved along the coast
by longshore drift appears to form part of a circular cell which leads to it
eventually returning updrift. Dredging of offshore shingle banks can therefore
contribute to beach depletion.
Shear Plane: a bedding plane or dividing line
between a permeable rock, e.g. sand, and an impermeable rock, e.g. clay. This
can become saturated after prolonged heavy rain and provides a line over which
part of the cliff can shear (break) away. See Slumping.
Slides: saturated weathered material moving
down a slope under the influence of gravity. See Mud Slides.
Slumping: involves a whole segment of the
cliff moving down-slope along a saturated shear-plane.
Soil Creep: the slowest of downhill movements,
occurring on very gentle and well-vegetated slopes. Although material may move
by less than 1 cm a year, its results can be seen in step-like terracettes on
hillsides.
Spit: a long, narrow accumulation of sand and
shingle formed by longshore drift and deposited where the coastline abruptly
changes direction. One end of the spit is connected to the land and the other
end projects out to the sea, often with a curved (hooked) end.
Stack: rock left standing out at sea after
wave erosion has separated it from the mainland. This is the next stage from an
arch. Waves will continue to erode the foot of the arch until its roof becomes
too heavy to be supported. When the roof collapses, it will leave part of the
former cliff isolated.
Storm Surge: a rapid rise in sea level caused
by storms forcing water into a narrowing sea area. Low air pressure at the
centre of the storm also causes sea levels to rise.
Stump: formed by continuing wave action
attacking a stack until it collapses.
Swash: forward movement of a wave up a beach.
Terracettes: step-like features on banks and
hillsides, the result of soil creep.
Terracing: the construction of horizontal
steps down the cliff face; once these become vegetated, they help stabilise the
cliff and prevent erosion.
Time: an important factor in coastal erosion
and deposition.
Tombolo: a spit joining an island to the
mainland.
Tourist Developments: resorts such as Barton
on Sea wish to build their beaches to attract tourists who are an important
source of income to the area. Cliff-top hotels, however, can actually contribute
to erosion, creating an impermeable zone that increases saturation in the
surrounding cliff area. Tourists walking on the cliff face also contribute to
erosion by destroying vegetation.
Updrift: areas that provide a supply of material
for deposition by longshore drift further along the coast. Updrift areas along
the south coast of England are to the west.
Vegetation: a ground cover of bushes and grass
on a cliff face helps prevent cliff erosion; their roots hold and trap
(stabilise) soil and prevent it being lost by mass movement.
Waves: caused by the transfer of energy from
the wind blowing over the surface of the sea. The largest waves are formed when
winds are very strong, blow for lengthy periods and cross large expanses of
water. See Fetch and Prevailing Wind.
Wave Attack Zone: the area between low and
high tide where wave erosion is most effective.
Wave Cut Platform: a gently sloping, rocky
platform found at the foot of an eroding cliff and exposed at low tide.
Wave Erosion: the power of the wave is
generated by the fetch. Waves erode cliffs by abrasion/corrasion and hydraulic
pressure.
Weathering the break-down of rock by
physical or chemical processes. |