Most of the Garraf has a typical southern Mediterranean
landscape. The vegetation is a dense scrub of one to three metres in height,
some of African origin. Garraf is the most northerly area of Europe where this
vegetation grows.
The vegetation on the coastal slopes tends to be MAQUIS - a
dense tangle of undergrowth usually found in impermeable areas or where soils
are damper. Maquis is from the French word meaning 'resistance' relating to the
armoured protection of the species.
Where the underlying rock is permeable, such as limestone,
GARRIGUE vegetation is found. This is less dense and lower lying scrub which
includes many aromatic plants such as rosemary and lavender.
In the drier and hotter interior of the Garraf, the holm (or
evergreen) oak and laurestine dominate in the damper valleys. Vegetation has
adapted to the dry, hot conditions and poor soils where water drains away
rapidly. Where the shrubs have leaves, these are evergreen, which enables the
plants to make full use of the relatively short periods favourable to growth in
spring and autumn. Adaptations such as leathery leaves, long roots and the
ability to close the leaf around the stomata helps survival through the summer
drought.
Some species have all their leaves reduced to spines to reduce
evapo-transpiration, such as the Kermes Oak, Gorse, Juniper and Heather.
Broom has no leaves, transpiring through its green stem. Plants
with flat, hard, waxy and leathery leaves that provide insulation include
Mock-Privet, Laurestine and Rosemary.
The stomata of the Evergreen Oak is able to close to preserve
moisture. Other plants, such as the Rock Rose shrivel their leaves in times of
drought to reduce evapo-transpiration. Some plants accumulate large quantities
of water within their structures, such as the Prickly Pear, Cat's Claw and the
Agave.
Strong aromas and resins repel animals. Such plants include
Rosemary, Lavender and Thyme.
Some of the plant species are particularly resistant to fire.
When their stems above ground are completely destroyed they are able to send up
new shoots.
Carritx, normally only found on the North African coast,
probably arrived in the Garraf from seeds dropped by migratory birds.
The lack of vegetation cover is due to past human activity on
the Garraf — the grazing of goats and growing of crops. There is much evidence
of the terraces or ‘Feixes’. Overgrazing and over-cultivation led to soil
erosion that removed the soil essential for tree regeneration.
Trees not only protected the soil from heavy rain and erosion.
They also provided shade and the shelter they offered from the wind helped
increase humidity levels, especially because of the water vapour received by
evaporation and transpiration from the tree foliage, the undergrowth and the
soil surface. The blanket of moister air would, in turn, prevent rapid
evaporation from the ground. Beneath the tree canopy therefore, the soil would
remain relatively cool and moist during the hot summer days even after weeks of
drought.
With the felling or grazing of the forest, the soil would have been exposed
to the wind and sun and dried to a considerable depth in only a few days. Also
the leaf-fall which had persistently supplied new humus to the surface layers
was now cut off; no longer were mineral nutrients being drawn by the plant roots
from deep within the soil and then returned to the soil through leaf decay. The
nutrient cycle was therefore altered as well as the water cycle. Without humus,
the soil lost its ‘stickiness’ or adhesive qualities. The winter rains were
able to run off the surface carrying the soil particles away. In a very short
time, bare rock was exposed, and where pockets of soil remain, these are poor in
humus and prone to drought.
The ‘terra rossa’ or red soils are often said to be characteristic of the
Mediterranean region. They are widespread on the Garraf. The redness is due to
the presence of iron (ferrous) oxide (Fe203), one of the
products of weathering of the limestone through the action of naturally-acidic
rain water. Were there more humus in the soil, the redness would be obscured and
the whole aspect of the Garraf (and much of the Mediterranean landscape) would
be very different.
Today, fire is a main controlling influence. In the past, it has been common
practice to clear the land for farming by burning the vegetation. Fires are also
started today by careless visitors, arson and lightning strikes. Burning favours
shrubs like the lentisk and the cistus which can shoot freely from the base of
the stems no matter how often they are burned. The saplings of trees, on the
other hand, cannot survive.
Vegetation and Human Value
LENTISK
The red fruit gives an oil that can be consumed. It has been considered an
aphrodisiac. The fruit also provides an indelible ink. An incision in the stem
produces a green, very aromatic liquid, with an odour similar to turpentine.
This is called the Turpentine of Kios. Its taste is slightly bitter but not
unpleasant. Chewing the fruit strengthens the gums and whitens the teeth.
BLACKTHORN
The fruit ripens at the end of August, turning from green to black. It is
poisonous. A short time after eating it, you would experience violent stomach
pains, vomiting, kidney and respiratory failure and death. In very small doses,
the plant is used as a laxative.
WILD OLIVE
The green fruit is very bitter. The ripe fruit is black and the oil is used
for cooking. It is a popular medicine. The leaves are used to relieve high blood
pressure and also for hypoglycaemia.
CAROB TREE
The fruit is very nutritious and is used in cattle feed. It has been used for
human consumption in the past. The pods are rich in calcium and sugars and can
be eaten fresh, dried or crushed. It can be made into an omelette (tortilla).
The fruit can be substituted for cocoa in the manufacture of chocolate and the
seeds have sometimes been used as a substitute for coffee. The seeds (quilates
or carats) were used in ancient times to weigh gold. The quality of gold plating
today is still measured in carats (in fractions of 24).
JUNIPER TREE
The berries are poisonous, but in low doses are used to treat kidney diseases
and as a stimulant. Oil obtained from the wood (oil of Miera) is used as an
antiseptic. The reddish timber is highly valued by cabinet-makers.
KERMES OAK
The acorns are used as animal feed. They are bitter but have been eaten by
people in times of food shortage. Roasted, they lose their bitterness and can be
used as a coffee substitute. Cochineal colouring (for materials) is also
obtained from them.
DWARF PALM
Its location in The Garraf is unique in Europe - it marks its most northerly
site in the continent. The palm dates are edible, but not popular. The leaves
have been used for hat and basket weaving and making brooms and rope. It is
protected by law.
HOLM (or EVERGREEN) OAK
The acorns are very bitter, but toasted, they lose this taste. They are used
as animal feed. The bark is used as a dye for wool, giving a maroon colour.
LAURESTINE
The fruit is poisonous, producing inflammation of the mouth, vomiting and
diarrhoea. It is used as a medicine but its rapid toxicity in higher doses
causes it to be rarely used today.
ALEPPO PINE
It is an important forestry tree, planted to help prevent soil erosion in
arid zones. The pine cone can be eaten, but is very oily. The bark is rich in
tannin dye.
STRAWBERRY TREE
The fruit can be eaten, but too many produces headaches as the ripe ones
contain alcohol! It is used to make alcoholic drinks, sweets and marmalade.
PRICKLY PEAR
The fruit is edible, but remove the spines first! Alcohol can be made from
the fruit pulp. It can be used to make a deliciously refreshing cold drink. |